![]() No coincidence that we tend to prefer the familiar. Familiarity is one of the keys you missed. The 18V MAX XR (compatible w/ both 18V/20V batteries) cordless compact router provides power like a corded compact router while providing the convenience of a. However, since all makes have some differences in approach, it is key to remember that we tend to get used to the specifics on any and then tend to compare features of the one we are familiar with others. I certainly agree the collet is a key to success no matter the router. Flipping the locking toggle before adjusting the height micrometer seems to aid the approach. Also, I have had no problems with adjusting the height of the bit either. Although I have to admit that I have bumped it off a few times but the convenience far outweighs this relatively minor inconvenience. Much preferable IMO to have a switch top side. Far better than having a switch on the side – I never know which side it is on. It has been a fairly useful addition to my tool assembly and I have few complaints.Ĭontrary to your dislike of the top mounted switch – I like it a lot. ![]() On the other side of the ledger, I also have a Ridgid R2401 Trim Router set up mostly for easing edges. Only complaint is that it is crazy expensive unit and probably beyond use of most handymen. Excellent router and it paid for itself many times over. Got rid of it a few years ago and replaced it with a Festool MFK 700 because of dust removal options and also various attachments for edge routing that are not available on other routers. I had a Porter Cable trim router for circa 20 years – mostly for trimming laminate countertops. Sorry for being long-winded, but I think the tight-quarters/large head size on trim routers is worth a thought if they will be used in areas with tighter clearances (I know its less likely).Good coverage about the mini routers. The price was nearly half as well (I paid only $129, and they can easily be found around the $130 mark being one of the cheaper trim router units it seems, though i think the depth adjustment is also the cheapest design). In my case, the makita offered the narrowest base in a 1/4" collet size, and in fact the corded version had much better clearance at the tool head than the battery version which I could not have used. The overarching theme with batteries is that while the tool is more maneuverable, it adds a lot of volume and width at the head, and would become extremely inconvenience/unworkable in tight spaces or where you have little clearance next to a wall (or running along a floor). I brought a work sample with me to tour around to stores, and test against corded and cordless tools of varying brands. Corded can also enhance compatibility with automatic dust collection in the shop (and changes nothing in operability if you are running it with a hose at the same time).Īs far as the reason not previously discussed, when purchasing a trim router, I was looking to do some work on hardwood trim installed in place flush against a wall (1.5" wide trim that needed edges profiled). ![]() ![]() Battery and tool longevity will however always be defeated by corded tools. Portability and lack of tangling also make sense with cordless. "important" it routers of such a small size. As previously discussed: Especially with trim routers, cordless makes a lot of sense as power is much less. I think most important points here were covered, I wanted to add one more, as I recently went through this debate myself. (I realize you already decided on something)
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